The quality of color and brilliance of a gemstone is directly related to the angles that each gemstone requires to refract the light entering the stone from the crown (top half), bouncing off the bottom facets (the pavilion) and returning back to the eye, also through the crown. These angles can make a stone look brilliant from end to end or, if they are not correct, can make the same stone look drab and washed out in the center. Over the years, we have been fortunate to have been associated with some of the most creative gem cutters in the country and have become very discerning in our choices as to how a stone should be cut to return the most beauty. We approach our precision lapidary work the same way we approach our handmade custom jewelry: with care, innovation, skill, and the goal of creating enduring beauty.
Because we have found such noticeable differences in the quality of cutting in the gemstones and diamonds that come across our bench, we decided to design and patent a pattern to be used on diamonds called the Jubilant Crown cut. In a nutshell, it has sixteen extra facets located on the crown that make the table (the large flat facet on the crown facing up) smaller than usual which allows the light to be refracted and returned to the eye in a more even manner and enhances the brilliance. The small table means there is more space on the crown to catch the light and refract it into prisms. The Jubilant Crown diamond looks as lovely in low light as in intense light!
In a similar manner, our colored gems are cut to very specific angles in order to maximize the color available and the return of light. A quick experiment to decide of a colored stone is well cut is to put a finger beneath the stone and look through the crown. A poorly cut stone will allow the finger to be seen easily while in a well cut stone, the finger will not be seen when looking through the crown which means all the color in the stone is being returned to the eye and not slipping out through the sides or bottom. Most of the world's cutters are interested in saving weight because they are paid per carat, so they choose to cut a shallow but larger stone rather than a smaller correctly cut one. The difference is night and day! We individually craft each piece of handmade jewelry we sell, so we prefer to use gemstones that are cut for beauty and performance, not weight, in our work. Handmade custom jewelry starts with handmade custom gemstones!